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FOUR C'S OF
DIAMONDS |
Cut Of
the four Cs, cut is perhaps the most important
factor affecting a diamond's overall quality and
beauty. A diamond's brightness, or its
brilliance, is determined by how much
light is reflected back to your eyes.
Light enters the stone through the crown,
which is the portion of the diamond above the
girdle. The crown is made up of the
table, which is the large flat facet on
top of the diamond, and many crown facets.
It then travels to the pavilion, or body,
of the stone, where it is reflected from one
side to the other and then back through the top
and to an observer's eye.

A well cut, well proportioned stone
evenly reflects and refracts light within the
stone, thereby producing an eye-catching, fiery
spectrum of color. A poorly cut
diamond, on the other hand, allows more light to
pass through or "leak" from the sides of the
stone, which results in a lifeless appearance
with reduced sparkle.

The science behind diamond cutting is
more or less an exercise in proportion.
Changing the proportion of a diamond's depth and
width is done in order to maximize the stone's
brilliance. If the cut adheres to certain
"ideal" proportions, the results can be
spectacular. If poorly cut, the results
can be so bad as to cause structural
instability, which makes the stone susceptible
to breaking. Because cut is so important,
gemologists have developed grading methods to
assist consumers in determining a diamond's cut.
In general, they are: Ideal, Excellent,
Very Good, Good and Fair.
The ideal proportions shown below are
known as the Tolkowsky Theoretical Brilliant
cut. In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky
published a paper detailing ideal proportions
for a round brilliant diamond. Modern
cutters offer a wide range of opinions on the
"ideal" cut, but Tolkowsky's findings are
mathematically indisputable and remain the basis
for these modern ideal proportions.

Color
The measurement and comparison of diamond color
ranges from colorless to slightly tinted.
However, discerning the subtle differences
between sequential color grades can be almost
impossible with the naked eye. For this
reason, a letter scale, such as the GIA
professional color scale which ranges from D to
Z, was created to assist in distinguishing a
diamond's color grade.
Diamonds that are in the "D-F" range are
considered colorless. These diamonds are
rarer and more expensive. Diamonds
in the "G-I" range appear completely
white to most observers and for this reason can
be a better value than colorless diamonds.
Color grades beyond "J" exhibit a yellowish or
brownish tint, which is increasingly discernable
by the untrained eye as you approach the extreme
end of the spectrum.

Carat A
carat is a unit of measure for diamonds, where
one carat equals 100 points, or 0.2 grams.
This measurement is referred to as the carat
weight and is used to determine a diamond's
size. Larger diamonds are more rare and
therefore more highly valued. In addition,
larger diamonds make it easier to see the
effects of other key characteristics, such as
cut and color. Depending on
the significance of these other characteristics,
diamonds of a similar size (carat weight) may
differ dramatically in price.
Clarity
Clarity is most often mistaken as being the
factor that determines a diamond's sparkle and
brilliance. This is not true.
Clarity describes the presence of imperfections
both on and within a diamond. Most
imperfections are microscopic flaws, or
"inclusions," formed inside the diamond during
the formation process known as crystallization.
Other flaws, however, appear on the surface of a
diamond and may have appeared during the cutting
process.
Essentially, the clarity grade
describes the flawlessness of a diamond; the
fewer the imperfections, the higher the clarity
grading. Naturally, these imperfections
have an impact on the value of a diamond,
particularly those that may be viewed by the
naked eye. In order to find and plot a
stone's flaws, gemologists use at least 10x
loupe magnification when grading for clarity.
Clarity grades range from Flawless, which are
diamonds that reveal no imperfection even under
10x magnification, to Imperfect 3, which are
stones with distinct blemishes visible to the
naked eye. See the chart below for a
description of each clarity grading.
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FL / IF |
Flawless or Internally Flawless. |
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VVS1 /
VVS2 |
Very,
Very Small Inclusions. Requires 60X
magnification to clearly see inclusions. |
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VS1 /
VS2 |
Very
Small Inclusions. Requires 30X magnification to
clearly see inclusions. A good choice for those
wishing to balance quality and affordability. |
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SI1 /
SI2 |
Small
Inclusions. Typically requires 10X magnification
to clearly see inclusions. In larger carat
weights, SI diamonds sometimes reveal their
inclusions to the naked eye. Nonetheless,
as long as you are careful to consider each
stone individually, you can often find the best
value in an SI1 or SI2 diamond. |
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I1 |
Imperfect. Eye-Visible Inclusions.
Often a popular choice for earrings or pendants,
as these items are generally scrutinized less
than diamond rings. Also a popular choice
for those shopping on a budget. |
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I2 / I3 |
Imperfect. Not recommended for
any practical jewelry application. | |
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